“The Only Tough Part about Having To Film in Idaho Is When You Have To Leave” (Clint Eastwood)

Enlightening Eastwood’s Pale Rider

With a Statewide Movie Signage Proposal

By Jim Banholzer

With special lights from Brad Nottingham & Professor Tom Trusky

Watching Clint Eastwood movies, particularly his well-crafted Westerns are almost like enrapturing religious experiences for some big screen buffs. Each of his movies project priceless lessons, even when he portrays an antagonist, such as the callous elephant hunter in White Hunter, Black Heart. Astoundingly enough, Clint filmed much of Pale Rider right here in Idaho, with a theme as ageless as the Boulder Mountains. Clint plays a nameless preacher protecting a poor prospecting town from a gang of ruffians sent by a greedy mining corporation, to intrude on their claim. This striking film, the first Western of which he was the Producer, was created in 1984 around Boulder City north of Ketchum and over by the Vienna Mine near Smiley Creek. Pale Rider was the predecessor to Clint’s 1992 Academy award-winning gem, Unforgiven.

Each time I watch Pale Rider, I focus on the recognizable background terrain, sometimes freezing specific frames to find my way around in the mountains. As my friend Brad Nottingham was a local then, he reminds us:

“For Pale Rider, there were some filming issues evident in the film as you see it today, which brought comment: it was filmed in our typically beautiful late Indian summer, and some of the riding scenes were filmed just before and after an unpredictable early season snow, which frosted the upper parts of the ranges, while quickly melting off the lower elevations. As a film viewer, a period of time that seemed to be about a week, appeared to toggle from summer to winter, which brought some criticism, I remember, but any of us mountain folk wouldn’t give it a second thought.

In addition, Clint made tremendous effort to restore the site that was disturbed by the building fronts, construction crew, and later the feet pounding of the actors and production crew on the little ridge and river drainage near the quaking aspen groves. Winter seemed to come quickly that year and for a bunch of us, it was hard to spot evidence of the film set trampling that next spring, though we tried. We also tried to find some kind of film crew item or something. Lon and I located “the rock” that one of the miners was chipping on in an early scene from the film.
When it finally came out, Pale Rider sort of stunned people, because it was a break from the Eastwood tradition. He played an even quieter, low-key character, and I remember people being confused about connecting a “preacher” role to him. Others, expecting the active dashing and violent Dirty Harry traditions found this movie kind of slow and spacey, features I didn’t mind at all this time. I just soaked in the scenery that I knew was almost in my backyard. I had driven my old Buick Wagon up there, and forded the rocky river crossing half a dozen times, hiking up to some of the “real” old mining cabins and diggings.

Soon afterward, a local man, David Butterfield had us typeset and produce an exhausting field guide to good locations across Idaho, including information about accommodations, prices, in order to drum up more filmmaking interest from Hollywood. After the book was published, I remember that there wasn’t much response, until the Bruce Willis engine began churning up sleepy Hailey in the 90s. I still have not rented that weird, forgotten-about movie (Town & Country (2001)) filmed in Bellevue that included Warren Beatty that had a fly-fishing connection, nor the one about Hemingway, but I did see that odd Twin Falls picture(Breakfast of Champions (1999)) that Willis was working on when his marriage to Demi was fast unraveling.”

While reading Brad’s insights, it occurred to me that the filming of this picture was a significant enough event that we should commemorate it with a historical sign. Folks at The Idaho Transportation Department were receptive to this idea and revised the Wood River Mine sign to include such a tribute. 

Photo courtesy of Steve Linden

Soon after we relayed this information to Boise State University English Professor Tom Trusky, head of the Idaho Film Collection, Tom became enthusiastic about the Pale Rider tribute and expanded the idea with a “Statewide Movie Signage Proposal”. To quote Professor Trusky, “The tourist / publicity value of such signage is apparent – and locals might appreciate such knowledge, too, if they are unaware of their cinematic heritage. As well, given the recent interest in bringing film production to the state, such signage would not only be public acknowledgement of Idaho’s considerable contribution to the film industry but also serve as a reminder to contemporary filmmakers of the Gem State possibilities.”

Although we now face uncertain economic times, and are unsure where money will come from to fix and maintain highways, Tom’s Statewide Movie Signage proposal is exactly the type of project we need to enrich Idaho’s future. By merging the information superhighway with our back road signage, we could show the world how we stand on the cutting edge, as well as being able to cut through bureaucracy in hard times.

As technological capabilities continue advancing in affordable ways, it would be uplifting to see Idaho embrace the techno generation by attaching to our already successful historical signage program, interactive items. For instance, when traveling up Highway 75 past the North Fork Store, when reaching the perimeter of interest where Marilyn Monroe starred in Bus Stop, we could make an alert available for interested traveler’s digital devices. A short holographic film of Marilyn hypnotically dancing with a billowing skirt on driver’s dashboards would keep dozing dad’s chipper and alert, lending to driver safety. Then, for the next fistful of history, when reaching Pale Rider’s Phantom Hill, we could create the sound of bullets whizzing by your ear as the subsequent alert. After a quick Galena Lodge pit stop for perusal over photographs stuffed rich with Idaho’s silver history, proprietors of the Sawtooth Valley could smilingly profit by making related material available to satisfy recently whetted traveler appetites.

Eventually, we could develop inexpensive solar powered information kiosks for our pullout areas. Our transportation department’s research and development teams could further engineer signposts to include emergency communication devices. We could imbed a camera-eye within the untouchable hologram to thwart vandals and when tampering is detected, program the sign to announce in Clint Eastwood’s sternest voice, “Go ahead! Make my day!  Because you are now being filmed by an interactive sign commemorating Idaho Films!” Stranded drivers in remote areas where cell phones misfire could come to know these signposts as secure places. Drivers passing the Pale Rider signpost might be inspired to take after the nameless preacher’s lead to assist marooned travelers.

Certainly, ITD already has some technologically savvy leaders aboard. This is my third positive experience with ITD leadership, which leads me to believe they use a high standard of innovativeness in their daily working environment. I hope that someday soon, our leaders will advance these landmark ideas past the incubation stage to transform these signpost pullouts into something that truly enhances our landscape. 

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

You can read more of Brad Nottingham’s insights on the ‘good guys’ in the Idaho Film Archive on Pale Rider: http://www.boisestate.edu/hemingway/film.htm

Complete text here:

http://privateidahoconversationleague.blogspot.com/2008/03/brad-nottinghams-pale-rider-memories.html

Lastly a related poem:

The Rock

I know about where it is
This big rock with a candy vein of gold in it
Scintillating under the stars

I want to find this Idaho Sword of Shannara
and lay me down under the silver fruit
Press the gold of my ear to the vibration
to sense if I can detect the echo of
when Lurch -or was it Jaws?
Split this baby in half
with an old 1863 hickory stick sledgehammer

Yepperdoodle
I’ll bend up over the hill tonite
a-foot
Too itchy and scratchy for a truck in that rough spot
to see if I can’t see how these hills have changed

Yeah that’s it
I’ll pack up the DVD player
better bring a spare battery juice-pack
Cause it’s cold in those Idaho hills
I’ll freeze frame on the DVD
sections of Mountains in that backdrop
and compare it to our current status
                    
I think of the nameless preacher in the movie
and for some reason the Beatles real nowhere man
jangles my juices like Satchel Paige on opening day

On spectacular evenings like these
Sometimes it feels like we’ll still be standing strong
long after these hills have fast eroded away

Original URL for Enlightening Eastwood story:

http://greenvanholzer.blogspot.com/2007/04/enlightening-eastwoods-pale-rider-by.html

Footnote: Not long after posting the earlier missive to my personal blog, I noticed that it was getting twice as many visits as the rest of my stories combined. A year ago, Dave Worrall from the U.K. contacted me, mentioning that he is writing a book for Solo Publishing about Clint Eastwood’s Westerns and looking for some old photos of the Boulder City territory. After we exchanged a few e-mails, including a photo of the Wood River Mines sign, I suggested he subtitle his book “Clint Eastwood = Old West Action” since they are anagrams of each other. Furthermore, with a little photoshopping, he could design the equals-sign to resemble a smoking rifle barrel.

Footnote 2: With the Senate recently passing a bill, to create a fund to offer incentives to film movies and TV shows within the state, and with the newly created Idaho Film Bureau ready to offer these incentives as soon their funding comes through, perhaps portions of this funding could help with such a program. As the next logical step in the evolution of Idaho’s popular Highway Historical Marker program, perhaps the Idaho Film Bureau could even ask for donations on their website, from those who have favorite Idaho movies and would like to see those specific movies commemorated in such fashion.

(more…)

Recent reports show that Idahoans overall seat-belt use has dropped to barely three out of four, with Southeast Idaho lowest at 62 percent. Interestingly, the seat belt usage rate in Washington is over 96% while in Oregon it’s at 95%.  

The primary reason for this difference is not that Oregon and Washington travelers are more enlightened, but that they will receive stiffer fines than Idahoans will. Caught Beltless in Seattle renders a $124 fine; while Oregon’s penalty is $90, however, Idahoans (above 18) only get lightly wrist-slapped for a measly ten bucks – or the equivalent of a small can of gas. 

Of all the safety features added to passenger vehicles in the past 50 years, safety belts account for more than half the lives saved in passenger crashes. If we cannot improve this basic safety routine on our own, perhaps some of us really do need Big Brother’s powerful influence to make us tighten our belts properly.

 In this land already lanced by legendary Larry Craig laugh-abouts, more Idahoans should buckle up and stay buckled up, before we become the butt of even crueler thinning the herd, Darwin award level jokes.

I’ve always wanted to be an exchange student, and now my dream has become reality. And what better place to spend a year than in Italy. I will be living in Brescia, a city in northern italy. It sits at the base of the Alps right next to Lago de Gardia and Lago d’Iseo. Could I ask for anything more?

I arrived in Italy exactly one month ago. I must say, I had a bit of a rough start. I was quite homesick, and the jet-lag took several days to wear off. But as soon all of that left my mind as I began to realize that I was in Italia.

I was given the opprotunity to come here by our local Rotary. I can’t believe how grateful I am to them. All ready I know this is going to be a life changing experience.

My host family is wonderful. I am living with a single mom, Emanuala and her 25 year old daughter, Alessandra. She has 3 other children, but they are all out of the house. (Elena, her youngest, is currently studying at Wood River). When I first arrived, I often walked around the city with my mamma. She flaunted me all over town, showing me off as if I were the most priceless gem in the world. She took me into all of her friends shops, annoucing as we entered, “La Raggaza Americana (the American Girl)”. All of the women would ‘ohh’ and ‘ahh’ saying “Bellisimo” and “oh che bella” (a phrase meaing ‘what beauty’ that is used ALL of the time.) Emanuala would beam as if she were the proudest woman in the world. I think that of all of the families in Italy, I got the best one. I never expected to feel so welcomed.

School is ok. In Italia, all the high schools are specialized. After 8th grade, each student chooses to go into either a math, science, arts, or foreign language highschool. I was placed in one of the many foreign language highschools in Brescia. School is 6 days a week, and my first vacation is the 24th- 26th of December. I can’t believe how hard the students work. Like in grade school, I stay with only one class all year long. This class specializes in English, German, and French. And when I say specializes, I mean that they are fluent in all three languages. On my first day of school, I had an english literature class. The students had read Animal Farm over the summer, and immediatly began an indepth discussion on how the book paralleled the politics of the time. And this whole discussion was in English. I was blown away. So needless to say, in the French and German classes I understand nothing! Italian is no better. Currently we are studying Machiavelli, so I am a little bit lost. But, I know things will get better. When I first arrived, I couldn’t understand a thing. Everyone speaks so fast. But after a month, the language is starting to sound more natural. Although I am still struggling with speaking it, I am having a easier time understanding it.

I have taken several trips to the lakes, and they are definitely amazing. Houses of earthy reds, pinks, and yellows line the water. All of the shutters are bright blues, greens, and reds. Laundry hangs on lines from every window. very picturesque. Lago d’Iseo is quite a bit bigger than redfish, with three islands in the middle. My family and I took a boat to the largest of the three where we began to search for a restaurant. A long walkway parallels the water, twisting around the entire island. Olive trees line the walkway and grape vines weave there way overhead, providing some much needed shade from the hot and humid weather. Butterflies dance around bringing a dreamlike feeling to the world.

It was on this island that I had my 1st cappucino. I must say, I think I’ve been missing out.

The funniest thing I saw on my lake excursion came when we took a boat tour around the lake. A large boat came into veiw. At the wheel was an italian man dressed in only a black thong speedo and standing proud for all the world to see. How someone can be so confident when wearing so little I may never know. I couldn’t help but laugh. All I could think is, I’m not in Idaho anymore!!

One last thing before I go. The Food. I can basically sum it up in one word. Amazing. I know I’m going to come back the size of an elephant, but frankly, I don’t care. It is so good. I’m eatting lots of procuttio, pasta, pizza, risotto, and gelato. It is to die for.
So until my next post… Ciao

This is an ongoing chronicle of Bill Erickson’s Salmon River to the Sea journey. Click here to read previous posts.

Word on the street is that the ABC World News piece that was filmed on August 31st and September 1st will air on Friday September 15. [Note: the ABC World News piece has yet to air. Keep your eyes open for it.] There are a couple of ways that you can see it. Of course you can watch it on your television, ABC World News with Charles Gibson. Another way is to subscribe to the ABC World News Videocast via iTunes. Check your local listings.

This is an ongoing chronicle of Bill Erickson’s Salmon River to the Sea journey. Click here to read previous posts.

After 17 days of paddling I have finally reached the slackwaters behind the first dam on the Snake River. I pulled into Lewiston on Friday August 25th, tired and ready for rejuvenation.

I left Salmon on a beautiful sunny morning, only getting a couple of odd looks from passers-by. Shortly after leaving the ramp I realized that I had forgotten to recharge my camera battery and it was running low. I was planning on passing North Fork and heading down river and just finding a place on the riverside to camp. I knew that there were a couple of campgrounds along the river so I pulled into one and paid for a place to put my tent for the evening. They let me recharge my batteries and got a good nights rest.

The next day I encountered the area where Lewis and Clark decided to take a different route to the West. Thus the sign noting “rapids ahead!” It was a fun filled and exciting day of rapids after going through an area aptly named “Deadwater.” This area was full of Great Blue Herons fishing the shallow waters, waters that fisherman have not been able to fish since 1978 due to the lack of sustainable fish coming back to spawn.

On August 16th, I joined the OARS-Dories crew and guests/members of Idaho Rivers United and went down river on the section known as “The Main.” We spent 6-days having a blast on the river, soaking in a hot springs on a chilly morning and having some really great discussions about salmon and the issues surrounding them.

I had a nice run down to Riggins spent the night in a bed with a pillow! Such a novelty at this point. I had 4 days of big miles and rapids to deal with so I rested up. From Riggins I paddled 34 miles to Hammer Creek and camped out for the night, just above the Lower Gorges of the Lower Salmon. I was given a wake up call in the form of a little Class II rapid flipping me over! Must have been tired. That day I ran into a trip with Sundog Expeditions and Save Our Wild Salmon, I ran Cougar Canyon with then and enjoyed a nice Bean Salad lunch, thanks guys. I paddled hard downstream and did a quick scout of Snowhole Rapid. Ran it with no issues and eventually caught up with a Oregon River Experiences trip. They feed me a wonderful dinner and an even better breakfast to go! Day three out was the big one from the top of the oxbow on the Salmon, around River Mile 21, I paddled all the way to Heller Bar on the Snake River, 41 Miles. It was an eventful day running the last rapids of the Salmon River and having to say goodbye. The confluence of the Salmon and Snake is a very amazing place, powerful. My friend Heather picked me up at Heller Bar and drove me into Lewiston.

Once in Lewiston, I had a nice dinner and crashed out early. The following day I took the sea kayak up to Heller Bar and ran the remaining 28 miles back to Lewiston. All was going well and then I hit Asotin, WA. This is where for all intensive purposes the current ends. It is a long 5 miles into Lewiston. My shoulders are pretty hammered right now and have been taking advantage of the rest days I have scheduled here.

Today we had a nice BBQ and Boat Race, put on by Idaho Rivers United and Save Our Wild Salmon. Thanks to the OARS crew for pitching in and helping out.

In an ongoing series of blogs about a journey from the Salmon River to the Pacific, and following a report about the first leg of the trip, Bill Erickson continues to share his experience with auto updates direct from the river. The updates are available in .mp3 format for download here.

Second Field Report
Third Field Report
Fourth Field Report
Fifth Field Report

Sunbeam Dam to Salmon, ID - 109 Miles and 2000′ PART 2

I took another hot soak before shoving off on Day Three, what a great way to start the day! After talking with the Middle Fork crew in Salmon I decided to keep on pushing and reach Salmon a day early. This way I would have a ride to the OARS house and would be able to hang out with some really great people for the evening. This decision meant that I would have another 34 mile day and then a 27 mile day to get me to Salmon. The gradient and current in this section backs off, so it became a little more work for me to make the miles that I needed to make. Day Three consisted of lots of gravel islands to navigate and tons of wildlife. I saw: 12 Deer, 7 Osprey, 13 Great Blue Herons, 1 River Otter, 1 Immature Bald Eagle and 4 Red Tail Hawks. This was another really long day on the water. I got my hopes up by reading my home-made map wrong and thought I was making great time. A couple hours later I finally pulled onto the island that I thought was upstream. The island was great, providing me lots of shelter from the winds that were whipping all day long. There were lots of deer coming down to drink, as well as a Great Blue Heron nest across the river, better than TV any day! After a great dinner of Ginger Sesame Pasta, I passed out early.

I was paddling by 8 on the start of Day Four, trying to get to Salmon around 2, were an OARS guide would come pick me up and take me to our guide house. Again the gradient and current in this section is not very great so it is a lot of paddling. From Shoup Bridge into Salmon was a really beautiful section with lots of islands and eroded cliffs. I pushed a Bald Eagle downstream for about 8 miles this morning. It would fly off and find a new perch, I would come down and it would take off and find a new one. Nissa from OARS came and picked me up with a beer for me in hand, thanks!

Wildlife Count: 36 Deer, 30 Great Blue Herons, 5 Steelhead Smolt, 5 Osprey, 4 Red-Tailed Hawks, 2 Bald Eagles, 2 Turkey Vultures, 2 Carp, 1 Immature Bald Eagle, 1 River Otter and 3 Road Signs in the river!

I have spent the last couple of days dealing with my resupply, doing a couple of radio interviews (Utah Outdoors), relaxing and mentally preparing for the challenges that await me downstream. It would be great to hear from you guys, what would you like to know about, what would you like to see more of, what do you think of the audio posts? Leave suggestions and thoughts in the comment section here and I will do what I can.

To keep track of me you can check out my calendar here. I will be making some audio posts in the coming weeks, will not be able to update the website until the 26th or so.

As a continuation of a story published on SunValleyOnline by NewWest.net, SunValleyOnline will continue coverage of Bill Erickson’s journey from the Salmon River to the Pacific by offering his ongoing blog of the journey. His motives are clear: to raise not only money for various environmental causes, but also public awareness of the cause, and, with any luck, get the national media interested. Below Bill share’s why he’s taken this cause on and his hopes to bring awareness to the wild salmon plight:

Goals: Raise public awareness…Bring national media attention…Raise money for Save Our Wild Salmon (SOS) and Idaho Rivers United (IRU)

The Salmon to Sea Awareness Trip is a 900-mile source-to-sea kayaking journey that will take place on the Salmon, Snake and Columbia River systems in August and September 2006. The trip will begin near the headwaters of the Salmon River in Stanley, Idaho.

All along this trip we plan on stopping in the towns along the river (i.e. Stanley, Challis, Salmon, Riggins, Lewiston, Tri-Cities, Hood River, Portland and Astoria). At these “Awareness” stops we will arrange to talk with local journalists and school groups and in several key cities we will have full-blown planned public rallies. The possibilities for the awareness stops are open to just about anything that we can come up with. We believe these educational stops will generate excitement about this trip and to the cause of wild salmon restoration.

On August 16, 2006 this trip will arrive at Corn Creek area of the Salmon River and will be joining an OARS-Dories commercial trip. This trip has been donated by OARS-Dories and sold by IRU as a fundraiser and as a way to talk with people in the environment in which we are trying to help. We would like to have someone join this trip to speak about wild salmon restoration and current environmental issues. We intend on having a national media presence on this trip for additional coverage.

As part of our fundraising for this trip, we will ask various outdoor companies and manufacturers to donate equipment (i.e. kayaks, paddles, tents, etc.) that will be used on this source to sea journey. The intention of this is to allow companies to show their support through a donation of their products. In December of 2006 there will be a charity auction of the donated gear with all proceeds going to IRU and SOS to assist in the wild salmon restoration fight. We also hope to raise money through private donations of those who are made aware of this issue through this trip and the publicity surrounding it.

This trip is important due to the sensitive nature of salmon migration. Our journey will retrace an ancient salmon migration path that is essentially extinct. There are many factors concerning the extinction of certain species of salmon, such as dams, fish hatcheries, and streamside erosion. In the 1950’s there were an estimated 4,000 sockeye salmon returning to Redfish Lake each year. In 2004, 24 sockeye made it back on their 900-mile journey from the Pacific Ocean, up the Columbia, Snake and Salmon River systems, passing numerous dams along the way. Wild Salmon, especially Snake River Salmon are in dire need of additional support that they are not getting. Today 1/10 of 1% of salmon spawned in Idaho makes it back to spawn. Through this trip, as well as the photographs, magazine and newspaper articles that come from it we can raise awareness and money to educate the public, leading to political change. The potential implications could lead to policy change, dam removal and the return of wild salmon and steelhead to sustainable levels.

Having flown yesterday and gotten stripped of my toiletries, this blurb from a blog after Richard Reid (the “shoe bomber”) was captured back in 2001 seemed appropos. A bit of levity for your Friday afternoon…

From BuzzMachine.com:

Ken Layne finds more benefits to my suggestion (that we should all fly nekked). First, Muslim fundamentalists won’t be flying around lots of nekked women! Second, the world will go on a diet. People will be thinner. I’ll have more elbow room and fat people won’t be shoving their seat back into my knees. Third, better hygiene: We can hose down smelly people.
- Now you might say to me, Jeff, don’t be ridiculous. At least we can fly in our underwear. But no. If enough C4 to take down a jet could be shoved into a shoe, imagine what could fit into a padded bra. I can see the headline now: Man Arrested at Logan With Explosive Codpiece. Ouch.

Any other benefits you can add?

On a related note, my favorite image of the day was this one.

By this standard, it turns out WMDs have been found after all.

Even broken down seniors seek new experiences and high adventure when it comes to travel. How does eating charcoal grilled grubs or roasted guinea pig, shooting a blow gun or throwing a spear, being cleansed by a medicine man, sharing your room with a four inch tarantula, crossing a 500 foot deep gorge in a basket hanging from a cable pulled by one sleepy pully-operater, or standing up against an angry mob threatening to commandeer your airliner qualify? Those were among the new experiences shared by my group of 60ish traveling friends visiting Ecuador.

Even some more mundane experiences were new to a few in our group. Tom, who has spent a lifetime managing his successful insurance business without ever showing up at his office before noon, was faced each day with bags out and breakfast at 7am. Nicolas, who hails a taxi to go two blocks, found himself gazing out from atop Machu Piccu. And I went nearly three weeks, scarcely missing not having a hair blower.

In the capable hands of Overseas Adventure Travel, we enjoyed the most diverse geography and culture imaginable in a country merely the size of Colorado. Admittedly, to novice travelers, this trip might be overly arduous. But to us, it was one giggle or awe inspired “Aha” after another.

Canoeing up the Napo River, the Amazon’s largest tributary, for 3 1/2 hours in the pouring rain was our introduction to our three-day stay in the rain forest. Sloshing through intense jungles, (we learned the difference between primary and secondary rain forests) we were grateful for the high rubber boots and rain ponchos provided by our attractive, well appointed Yachana Lodge. Our guide, Juan, informed us early that the difference between the rainy season and the dry season is that during the rainy season it rains all the time. In the dry season it merely rains every day. Juan, who looked as if he’d been sent by Central Casting to play Tarzan, grew up in the rain forest. Besides being deft at keeping our canoe righted despite turbulent waters, he was articulate, warm, and well informed, never at a loss for an answer. I often wondered if there was not just one plant, bird, bug, or reptile he could not identify and characterize with its medicinal possibilities.

After a respite from the rain, which enabled us to visit a local village and neighboring school where kids arrive by canoe, we were glad for a brief afternoon rest. Just a few hours of sun offered a hint of just how hot it can get. Each of our rooms had a balcony overlooking lush gardens with an inviting red hammock. But no sooner would I flop into our hammock, than the two resident spider monkeys would pounce on me. A mixed blessing, for they were mighty cute. You should have seen me trying hopelessly to photograph them, an almost impossible task for they never stayed still. Besides they were preferable to the tarantula that found its way into one of our friend’s room.

Our next major destination wa